TUDOR Heritage Black Bay 'Midnight Blue' Rivet Steel Bracelet Reference M79230B-0001 - Simple, non-complicated timepiece, A Review (plus Video)

When Tudor announced back in 2015 that the brand will start to ship its watches with in-house movement instead of using external parties' such as ETA got me interested in the brand. After a few years, I finally got the Pelagos. Now, I am in a position to be able to acquire the Black Bay with the in-house movement.

The Black Bay is synonymous with Tudor. Since its release in 2012, a lot of watch collectors have a spot in their collection that earmarked for the Black Bay. For many budget conscious collectors, it has the pedigree yet not the expected price premium generally associated with such an icon.

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay is an icon. The genesis started from the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 back in 1954. It was a self-winding watch and features a case with a screw-down back and a crown with 100 meter water pressure rating. Very practical in design, well proportioned and excellently built. I love to have it in my collection.

TUDOR Pelagos Titanium 500 meter Blue Dial Dive Watch Reference M25600TB-0001 (similar to M25600TN-0001 & M25610TNL-0001) - Despite some issues, the watch is still pleasant to wear and can be worn for a long time without getting tired, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got my first Tudor watch!

There are a number of exciting examples under this brand. After giving it some thought, I decided to get its most advance tool watch, the Pelagos. The model I chose is the blue dial version reference M25600TB-0001.

Tudor is part of the Rolex Group of companies. When the original founder of Rolex, Mr. Hans Wilsdorf decided that he needed another series of watches with the same level of manufacturing standard as Rolex but sold at a lower price point, the idea of a separate company, the Tudor watch company was born.

Today, the price deferential between contemporary models between Rolex and Tudor is 1:2. If you want to own a piece of Rolex manufacturing quality and standard without the premium associated with that premium brand, Tudor is an excellent alternative.

As a product, the new Tudor Pelagos is 100% made in house by the manufacture. Although Tudor previous uses the ETA movement to power its watches, in 2015, the brand launched it first series of house movements. Since then, Tudor has slowly incorporate its in house movements across the various models in its collection.

Alpina Pilot Automatic Startimer 44 mm Reference AL-525B4S6 Limited Edition of 8888 pieces (#2000) – Sold at a price point that belies its provenance, A Review (plus Video)

The pilot watch is a theme that I have been quietly drawn to. This time, I’ve decided to look at the Alpina Startimer series as good candidate for my collection. I did find one I like and it’s the basic three hand plus date model. The Startimer Reference AL-525B4S6 was the choice I made with a limited production run of just 8,888 examples. The particular unit I got was numbered 2,000.

I think my taste has changed. Usually I get excited with dive watches. However, as the years rolled by, I am attracted to simpler and more formal styles of watches. A pilot watch is one of the new found interests to me. I find it more flexible when it comes to usage especially within a formal event.

Alpina Watches was established 1883, making them one of the oldest brands currently in production. Founded by Gottlieb Hauser, Alpina made watches in both Switzerland and Glashütte. In 1938, Alpina introduced durable sport watches with the “Alpina 4” concept, a set of standards that includes anti-shock, waterproof, anti-magnetic and a stainless steel case. In 2002, Alpina was bought by the founders of Frederique Constant. They have several themed ranges, but the most numerous is their line of pilot watches.

BALL Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Reference DG2016A-SC-BK - Well protected as a tank and a real bright spark in the dark, A Review

This is my first BALL watch. Although I know about this brand, I was introduced to it only lately by a friend of mine that have a lot of knowledge about BALL watches. From a historical perspective, BALL Watch Company is impressive. 


Brand History

BALL Watch Company SA is an American watch company based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. It was founded in 1891 by Webster Clay Ball (also known as Webb C. Ball) in Cleveland, Ohio, and is directly linked to the American railroad history.

After a tragic train collision in 1891 in Kipton, Ohio, due to timing issues, Mr. Ball was appointed by Lake Shore Lines, a train company to help revamp the railroad system, incorporating accurate timing as a cornerstone that keeps things moving without any mishap. He set up the “RR Standard” (“RR” for Rail Road) to assure a high accuracy and perfect reading to all railroad employees. He also created the BALL Time Service, an after-sale service to which every employee of the rails had to bring his watch every two weeks to make sure the accuracy and reliability of the watch was optimal. Some of the key criteria for a watch to obtain the “RR Standard” certification are as follows; no lid on the dial; size 18 or 16 (44.86mm or 43.17mm); plain white dial, bold black hands and Arabic numbers; minimum of 17 jewels; adjusted to at least 5 positions; adjusted to temperature 40 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit; and accuracy with a gain or loss of maximum 30 seconds a week, among others.

Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Titanium T091.420.44.051.00 - A smart watch that has style and class; worth every bit, A Review

Up to this moment, I own two Tissot watches. Both I bought when I visited Switzerland back in 2011; the Tissot Gents T-Classic Le Locle (see: http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2013/10/tissot-gents-t-classic-le-locle.html) and the Tissot Seastar II (see: http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2014/02/tissot-seastar-ii-t55848311-refine.html). Before and since that purchase I have not looked at another Tissot because of the many issues relating to the brand from counterfeit all the way to the lack of serial numbers (Google it to find out more).

In recent years I have been attracted to one of Tissot's most famous series, the T-Touch after seeing being worn by Richard Hammond of the Top Gear fame. In all his overseas Top Gear adventures you will always see him with an orange strap Tissot T-Touch.

Although Tissot presented its first tactile multi-functional watch in 1999, it was only 15 year later, in 2014 that a T-Touch with solar power capability was introduced to the general public. I finally took the plunge and got myself a T-Touch Expert Solar Reference T091.420.44.051.00.

Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph Limited Edition Watch Reference 225.12.43.50.01.001 - I like the way it is, A Review

When Omega introduced the Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph Limited Edition watch during BaselWorld 2013, it created a lot of buzz. It seems that Omega has finally realized the value of their historical iconic designs and it was time to milk it. This is one of the first modern re-introduction inspired by the 1969 Seamaster Driver Bullhead watch (since then Omega has re-introduced a number of its old icons e.g. the Speedmaster Mark II, among others).

It was love at first sight when I lay my eyes on the Bullhead. I had set my heart to get it, eventually. However, I was deeply disappointed to find out that it was going to be a limited edition piece. The likelihood that I would get it became unbelievably slim. However, fortune shined on me and in 2015, I was presented with the opportunity to realize my dream.

The example that I was lucky to get my hands on is the pure black version with the production number 121 (out of 669). I actually like the number. Although I don’t believe in numerology, the 121, to me, signifies what I like about the watch; the symmetry and utility of the design.

There was another option, the Bullhead with the silver dial. However, after looking at it first hand, the silver surface was reflecting too much light that makes it difficult to see. The black version has a more practical feel to it.

Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200 M Omega Co-Axial 55 x 48 mm Steel on Rubber Strap Reference 224.32.55.21.01.001 - Its true KPI is how well it continues ticking after being abused, A Review

A watch brand's ultimate professional diving watch. This is one sub-category of my collection philosophy that I have tried to keep with some degree of success.

Since my acquisition of the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller, I have slowly assembled a collection of the best diving watches a brand could create by a few respective watch brands. As at today, I have in my collection the following brand/highest specification dive watch:

1. Rolex/Deepsea Sea-Dweller
2. Deep Blue/Depthmaster 
3. Ocean7/LM-8
4. Bell & Ross/BR02-92 
5. Victorinox/Dive Master Black Ice
6. Orient/Pro Saturation Diver 
7. Citizen/Promaster Autozilla
8. Seiko/Marinemaster Emperor Tuna

Before the close of 2014, I was able to add on to that list. This time, a 'grail' watch from Omega - The Seamaster PloProf. The story how I got the watch is interesting.

Rado Original Diastar Diver Automatic Model R12639023 - Not too big and can be used for active lifestyles as well as formal functions, A Review (updated with comments from a reader)

Rado..... This is one brand that has never been in my list of "must-have". However, from a technological point of view, I have been following this brand very closely. The way Rado has been able to use exotic materials for its watch designs intrigues me.

Of all the Rado designs available, I like the turtle-shaped watch casing the best. This style is under the Original Diastar line of watches. When I stumbled upon the Model R12639023, I was blown away. It has most of my favorite watch designs namely an internal bezel, sapphire crystal and (of course) the turtle-shaped watch casing. It is only at this point that I realised how difficult it was to source for this particular model.

Although Rado is part of the Swatch Group and has a formal presence in Kuala Lumpur with a few boutiques and a number of authorised dealers across the city, none carries the complete range of current models. After going to various Rado authorised dealers, it dawned on me this particular model is unique and not easily available. I was tempted to source it via the internet. As this would be my first Rado, I was hesitant to search the internet as I would prefer to review it physically first before making the plunge to buy. Moreover, if I do decide to get it from the internet, it would have to come from an internet merchant that I not had any experience with. It was only after I spoke to a resourceful salesman from AWG Fine Watches in Mid Valley that he was able to source one for me via the Swatch Group at a cost matching the internet price!

This is very interesting. It implies that we can bargain and get a price similar to what internet merchants are selling. The notion that brick-and-mortar shops cannot offer prices like internet merchants due to fixed costs is not necessarily true.

Tissot Seastar II T55.8.483.11 - A Refine Watch, A Review

In February 2011, I was in Switzerland. While there, I got a couple of watches. One of them is this Tissot Seastar II for my wife. Although defined as a gentleman's watch, its diameter size of just 36 mm makes it more "feminine" than "masculine".

It is an all stainless steel construction. With a white dial, it has markers with gold plating, including the hands. It has say and date functions situated at the 3 o'clock position. Apart from the brand "TISSOT 1853" at the North of the dial, the South has "AUTOMATIC 25 JEWELS SWISS MADE". All along the perimeter of the dial are micro-markers in 0.2 second intervals.

OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial - A Great Tool Watch That Can Take A Beating, A Review

This OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Reference 2208.50.00 was a gift to my wife back in 2010. I bought it to commemorate her obtaining an open water diving certification. This watch has the "600 M" stamp that denotes its capability to operate down to a depth of 600 meters. A very serious tool watch.

OMEGA launched the Planet Ocean line in 2005. This model, with its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, features a black dial with a date window at the 3 o’clock position. The orange unidirectional rotating divers’ bezel is mounted on a 45.5 mm stainless steel case on a stainless steel bracelet. To put it in perspective the diving capability of this watch, the 600 metres is equivalent to 2000 feet or 60 bar. The Co-Axial calibre 2500 is at the heart of this certified chronometer.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116520 - A Grail Watch To Own, A Review

People do say, once you own a Rolex watch, you become life-long fan of the brand and its mystique. After getting my first Rolex back in 2010 (Rolex Deepsea Sea Dweller), I started to explore the history behind the brand and the various models available.

 

DSSD	Milgauss GV	Explorer 1	Daytona	Submariner ND (TBA)	Yacht-Master II (TBA)

TBA – To Be Acquired; excludes same model with different dials i.e. I would not go for another Milgauss (white or black) as I already have the green.

My preference for Rolex has always been the sports model. To be more specific, sports model without the cyclops eye. Honestly, the cyclops eye is ugly in my view. Rolex should keep the crystal on their watches flat.

As a result of my personal choice, there are only six sports model currently sold by Rolex to fulfill my requirements. These are listed in the table above.

Four years since my first Rolex, I have added my fourth, the Daytona into the collection.With this purchase I have another two more models to go before I complete my personal collection of Rolex sports model minus cyclops eye.

Rolex Milgauss 116400GV - Solid And Youthful, A Watch Review

I have to declare upfront that I do not work as a scientist. Therefore, the likelihood that I will ever need a tool watch that could withstand intense magnetic fields is close to zero. Nevertheless, I am a techno geek and a watch nerd. The thought that it is possible to combine anti-magnetic properties into a watch intrigues me immensely (Anti-magnetic watches are defined as watches that can still operate in highly magnetized environment).

I got myself a Rolex Milgauss 116400GV where "GV" is glass verte or green sapphire glass. This model is under Rolex's professional series but is the only one dedicated to scientists.


The first Milgauss was introduced by Rolex back in 1954 to help scientists work in the highly magnetic charge research environment of CERN (it was postulate that it was CERN that requested Rolex to come out with the Milgauss but it has yet to be proven. For more on the earlier history of Milgauss visit: http://www.timekeeperforum.com/threads/review-of-the-rolex-milgauss-116400gv.2174/).

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm Plastic Crystal Non Quick 1601 - Keep Running And Running; A Review On The Immortal Classic

I own a Rolex Datejust 1601. An old watch and based on its production number it was manufactured in the early 1960s (1962 is the best approximation).

Tissot Gents T-Classic Le Locle Automatic Watch Reference T41.1.483.53 - Uncomplicated And Classy

This is the watch that I got from Switzerland in February 2011. The Tissot Gents T-Classic Le Locle Automatic Watch has a nice classic look to it. It has a stainless steel case, grey-tone stainless steel bracelet with black dial with roman numerals.

The Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea Reference M116660-0001 - A Technological Marvel And A Brute To Wear

The Rolex Deepsea was designed with the singular purpose; to enable extreme divers to make it their first choice watch for diving. Rolex incorporates the need for styling to cater for connoisseurs.

The Rolex Deepsea is water resistant to a depth of 3,900 metres (12,800 feet). The 44 mm case is made out of 904L stainless steel with thick 5 mm domed sapphire crystal and unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in platinum.

Featuring the Rolex 3135 Automatic movement, this one undoubtedly a robust watch with a tough movement that already certified by COSC and featuring stop-second and quick date change. Its balance, that receives an accurate microstella screw setting, beats 28.000 alternations/hour and is now endowed with the Parachrom spiral. The rotor moves in both ways for a better winding.

Victorinox Dive Master 500 Black Ice Mechanical - A Well Balanced Dive Watch Design

Victorinox is synonymous with its famous red pocket knife. This is a company over a century old. Not a lot of people know that the company also has a watch division established in 1989. For the last two decades, a number of notable watch designs were introduced. One model that got me interested in this brand is the Dive Master. In 2012, I got myself the 500m Black Ice Mechanical in blue.

IWC Ingenieur Reference IW3236 - A Substantial Watch With Historical Ties to Great Names

I will focus and provide a hands-on opinion on IWC Ingenieur Reference IW3236 watch, commonly known as The Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth i.e. the IW323604 version.

This watch is substantial. The case diameter is 46 mm (excluding crown) while its height is 15 mm. With such dimensions, you need to have a good size wrist to carry it confidently. In my case, my wrist is 7.5 inch in circumference and yet, the watch still looks sizeable.

The Gérald Genta design philosophy can still be seen in this particular example. The original Ingenieur designed by Genta (the SL1832 Ingenieur and its reproduction, the IW3227) was just 42.5 mm in diameter. This supersized version has two notable additions to make it pleasing to the eye. The first are the crown guards and the second is the lack of sharpness on the edges of the casing. The former makes this watch looks sporting while the second helps it from not getting easily snagged against cuffs etc.

In the picture below, the 15 mm height of the case is not that obvious because it is masked by the substantially thick stainless steel bracelet. Due to the smoother edges, it moves in and out of shirt cuffs easily.

Omega Speedmaster Automatic Chronograph Reference 3510.50 – Is Not a Reduced Speedmaster Professional But A Completely Different Watch Altogether

I have always wanted to get a Speedmaster in my collection. The original idea was to get a Speedmaster Professional “Moon” watch due to its romantic tie-in with the NASA moon landings. Although stories abound on how the Omega was chosen over other brands, the two important criteria, accuracy and the inability of the crystal to shatter and create dangerous floating debris in zero gravity makes the Omega the first choice. If this were the only two important factors for a “Moon” watch, I realized that Omega has another similar looking piece that fulfills the original scope set by NASA. After a lot of thought, I got a pre-owned piece.

The Omega Speedmaster Automatic Chronograph Reference 3510.50 or sometimes called the “Reduced” Speedmaster Moonwatch looks very similar to the Speedmaster Professional. The watch uses the Omega 3220 as a base movement with a Dubois-Debrois chronograph module mounted on top. The case is polished stainless steel, with brushed sides. The case width is 39 mm (versus 42 mm for the Professional). Its height is 11.7 mm (versus 14.4mm for the Professional). Meanwhile, the “Reduce” comes with a domed Hesalite crystal, which is made out of acrylic. The case back is solid and is a snap-on (for the Professional it is a solid case back but screw down).

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 39 mm Reference 214270 – An Improved Incarnation Of A Classic

Recently I acquired my third professional Rolex Oyster piece, the Explorer 39 mm Reference 214270. With this acquisition, I have 3 of possible 6 Cyclops-less Rolex professional models in my collection. For high-end watches, I go to an authorized dealer to get it. Although it would be cheaper to source it from other channels or even get a second-hand piece, I don’t mind paying the premium because that is also part of the experience of owning such a watch in my opinion.

Although the Explorer series have been in existence since the 1950s, the modern Explorer evolved in 1989 with the release of the 14270 that introduced Sapphire crystal, gloss dial with white gold surrounds to the markers, a redesigned 36 mm case and the 27 jewels Cal 3000 movement. The 114270 followed in 2001, upgraded with the 31 jeweled Cal 3130 and solid end links to the bracelet, but retaining the 36mm case and pressed clasp.

Another major upgrade to the Rolex Explorer range came in 2010 with the release of the 214270. The most obvious change being the increase of case diameter from 36 mm to 39 mm. The movement was also upgraded to the Cal 3132, along with changes to the dial, bracelet and clasp.